ADDISON BY WILLIAM BRADLEY

Chef William Bradley has run the kitchen at Addison since it opened in 2006, and he calls what he does California Gastronomy — global ideas filtered through Southern California's ingredients and seasons. The stars came slowly and then all at once: one in 2019, a second in 2021, and a third in December 2022 that made Addison the first restaurant in Southern California to hold three. The dishes can be playful — chicken liver churros, a riff on chips and dip — but the technique underneath is exacting, like the shellfish chawanmushi the Michelin inspectors single out. The room sits high on a bluff, with arched windows, soaring ceilings, a long tasting menu and a wine cellar at its heart. A genuine special-occasion table, and San Diego's proudest one.