Astrance

There's real history in these walls — this is where Joël Robuchon built his reputation at Jamin — and Chef Pascal Barbot, with partner Christophe Rohat out front, has made the space his own while quietly tipping a hat to the great chef. Barbot cooks with an undimmed obsession for produce and a real love of Asian and plant-forward ideas, and longtime fans will be glad his famous button-mushroom and foie gras millefeuille is still very much on the menu. There's a stunning glass wine cellar, and a maître d' who'll find you the rare bottle you didn't know you wanted. One Michelin star and a longtime presence on the World's 50 Best. Quietly one of Paris's best.