富臨飯店 Forum Restaurant

Founder Yeung Koon-yat earned the nickname the "Abalone King" the hard way: he spent three years learning to prepare a single dried Japanese abalone, slow-braised for the better part of a day on layers of bamboo, ribs, and chicken until the core turns almost sugary. The dish that resulted — Ah Yat abalone, named for him — has been served to Deng Xiaoping and Jacques Chirac and remains the reason people come. Since Yeung's passing in 2023, his longtime apprentice Wong Lung To has kept the kitchen exacting, the calligraphy on the walls, and the prices firmly in "the rich man's canteen" territory. Three Michelin stars. Order the abalone days in advance, and don't sleep on the clay-pot fried rice cooked tableside.