Da Vittorio

Da Vittorio is family in the deepest sense. Founded by Vittorio Cerea in Bergamo in 1966 and now run by his children — chefs Enrico and Roberto in the kitchen, their siblings across the wine cellar and dining room, their mother Bruna presiding over it all — it moved out to a villa in the green Cantalupa hills in 2005 and has held three Michelin stars since 2010. The cooking is Lombard tradition with a creative streak and almost reckless generosity; it made its name on seafood in a meat-loving region, and the paccheri they're known for is the dish people order no matter what menu they choose. It's also a Relais & Châteaux estate, so you can stay the night. Come hungry, and stay a while.